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Post by tomac on May 19, 2006 17:51:27 GMT 10
the spindle you can't get from a shop. Unless the shop is 50 years old. Cottered spindles were displaced in the 1960s/70s by cotterless (square taper) spindles.
- Joel
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Post by cdfeto on May 20, 2006 11:16:39 GMT 10
joel, do you still have those cranks (square taper ones) and could a square taper BB fit on the frame ?
cheers
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Post by tomac on May 21, 2006 9:07:37 GMT 10
I don't have any square taper cranks at the moment. an english threaded BB of any sort should fit in the frame.
- Joel
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Post by cdfeto on May 21, 2006 18:01:30 GMT 10
ok then I'll takes those "20 dollar" cranks if thats still ok. I went to the bike shop in the week end ... around 30 bucks for a BB, so it should be sweet.
When/where could I meet you for the cranks ?
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Post by tomac on May 21, 2006 19:28:15 GMT 10
you went to a bike shop and got a price on a cottered BB? Does that include cotter pins? What shop?
- Joel
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Post by cdfeto on May 21, 2006 21:15:17 GMT 10
I went to TLC. I'm confuse ... again ... what is a cotter ? cotter pins ?
sorry about that ... again ...
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Post by tomac on May 21, 2006 22:20:58 GMT 10
these are cotter pins:  the last two pictures on this page show the cottered cranks in place: www.classicrendezvous.com/British/Raleigh/Raleigh_1963_GranSport.htmthis is the cottered BB spindle:  The two flats on the outsides are 180 degrees apart, the crankarm slides on, and the cotter pin goes through one side of the drilling through the crankarm. The flat of the cotter pin contacts the flat of the spindle, and as the nut is tightened on to the cotter pin, the crankarm is secured to the spindle. - Joel |
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Post by tomac on May 21, 2006 22:52:49 GMT 10
to clarify - "cotterless" cranks are all modern cranks. Pretty much all alloy cranks, anything made for any mountain or road bike in any of our lifetimes. Square taper (the common shimano(tm)/japanese JIS size or less common ISO/Italian size) or Octalink(tm), ISIS(tm), any variation on the bullseye(tm)/coda(tm)/shimano(tm) external bearing idea.
Cottered cranks are the ones described above. You are under no obligation to run this type of crankset. It would be aesthetically much more correct however. It will be much cheaper, but only if you can track one down which may take a bit of time and travel.
You wouldn't run a spindle like the one pictured above however, because it is designed for a multiple chainring setup (probably a 48/52 or similar) as the drive side is longer than the non-drive side to allow the chainrings to clear the chainstays. The crankset which would go with your 3 speed would probably have a 44t ring, chromed, swaged/pressed onto a chromed crankarm.
The sprocket on the rear hub is probably an 18t, the gear ratios are probably 1 (direct drive), 1.33 (high) and 0.75 (low). The Sturmey-Archer AW model of hub was incredibly common on these types of bikes including the Australian Malvern Star and Speedwell models. If your bike has a shimano on it the ratios will probably be similar. If the bike has the original rear wheel, checking the date stamp (a two digit number, the last two digits of the date of manufacture stamped into the hubshell in between the spoke flanges) is the easiest way to date it. The manufacture date is probably the stamped date +1.
- Joel
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Post by cdfeto on May 22, 2006 8:25:00 GMT 10
OW ! I finally get it. So your cranks (the ones you offerd me) need cotter pins and can oly fit on cotered BBs ?
Is the size of the cups and bearing used to fit with the cotered BBs, the same as newer BBs ?
So getting theses parts (cottered BB and pins) is pretty hard now and even nearly impossible from bike shop, yeah ?
So if I don't want to search all Canberra, can I just put a newer BB and some newers cranks on ?
thanks again, chris
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Post by tomac on May 22, 2006 9:16:17 GMT 10
yes you can put newer cranks on. Measure the chainline (uh oh). Actually just measure the over-locknut-dimension of your hub (the distance between the rear dropouts when the wheel/hub is installed) and then measure the distance between the centre of the sprocket and the inside of the drive side dropout. Post them here. I'll give you chainline. This is an important figure when decided what BB spindle width to buy.
The size of the cups and bearings should be the same (1.37" * 24tpi cups, driveside reverse threaded, bearings 1/4", 11 each side unless you use bearing retainers which I recommend in your case), but any BB you buy now will be a cartridge BB, which you can't pull apart and swap spindles/bearings etc. This is the best option if you're going to use modern cranks, cartridges are easy.
Actually I think modern cranks might give it an interesting nuevo look. go it.
- Joel
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Post by cdfeto on May 22, 2006 17:33:38 GMT 10
Hi,
dimensions : are over-locknut : 110 mm
- sprocket/dropout : 25 mm
So the way to go is cartridge BB and "new" cranks ...
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Post by cdfeto on May 22, 2006 17:56:29 GMT 10
I just checked the frame and hub for serial numbers ... the frame's one ends by 69 so i guess it's from 1969 and the only numbers I could find on the hub was a 75 and a 4 (no together).
The cog is a 18T.
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Post by tomac on May 22, 2006 19:32:19 GMT 10
sweet - the hub is from april 1975 and I guess the 1969 makes sense.
your chainline is 30mm (110 / 2 - 25) which is tiny, give us an idea of what sort of cranks you want to use and I can guess a BB spindle width.
- joel
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Post by cdfeto on May 22, 2006 20:48:02 GMT 10
I really don't mind about the cranks. Just want them to work and to be cheap.
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Post by tomac on May 22, 2006 23:14:35 GMT 10
well when you find some, let me know  - Joel |
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