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Post by cdfeto on May 23, 2006 17:16:54 GMT 10
I'm trying to find some on farkin, allclassified and stuff ...
So no one here has cranks or a BB (for sale) that I could use ?
Other wise I'll probly check at the dump.
thanks, chris
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Post by JoelO on May 23, 2006 18:42:20 GMT 10
i have the old cup and cone bb off my beater which you can have if it's compatible, no cranks though.
i bought my entire bike from aussie junk for ten bucks, if you could find something there with suitable parts that would probably be your best option.
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Post by tomac on May 23, 2006 18:52:12 GMT 10
that's the best option.
- Joel
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Post by cdfeto on May 23, 2006 19:22:55 GMT 10
what cranks would fit on that BB ?
Can I tell you if your cups will fit by giving you some measurements of my cup (the one, and only one, left on the bike) ?
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Post by JoelO on May 23, 2006 19:29:13 GMT 10
i know nothing about these sort of bikes.
like i said before, best bet would be to find a bike at aussie junk at the tip and use it for parts, will end up about the same price anyway.
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Post by cdfeto on May 23, 2006 20:06:55 GMT 10
yeh, but how am I going to know if th parts on the bike (a the dump) will fit my Speedwell ?
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Post by tomac on May 23, 2006 22:37:34 GMT 10
they probably will. The only part you're talking about is the bottom bracket. 99% of bikes on the road use this type of "english" threaded bottom bracket, 99.9% if you discount BMXs. It will probably fit. If in doubt, organise a time for someone to inspect your bike to confirm compatibility.
What are the measurements of your bottom bracket cup? can you remove it? an "english", "BSC", "mtb" or "euro" or "standard" (all the same thing) threaded BB shell has a threading diameter of 1.37" / 3.4798mm and a thread pitch of 24 threads per inch / 1.05mm.
I would like to see this bike though. Where in canberra are you?
- Joel
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Post by cdfeto on May 24, 2006 8:10:33 GMT 10
I'll try and get the cup off today. I'm in Red Hill.
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Post by tomac on May 24, 2006 16:13:02 GMT 10
is it the right or left hand cup? Right hand cup is probably reverse threaded. That is, clockwise will loosen it. It's also likely that as the driveside cup is the only one to sieze on steel frames, it's unable to be removed with conventional tools. I have an unconventional tool which may be able to extract it if this is the case.
- Joel
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Post by cdfeto on May 24, 2006 17:16:47 GMT 10
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Post by tomac on May 24, 2006 18:47:36 GMT 10
sweet dude. Sturmey-Archer AW hub with the original indexed shifter, bike seems complete except for the BB/cranks. That is the driveside cup which is actually the right hand cup - I imagine it is seized in there which is why it wasn't removed with the rest of the BB ! But I can remove it with my fixed cup removal tool - I imagine it's too tight to extract with a traditional fixed cup removal tool (a spanner essentially) or an adjustable spanner. Don't try too hard or you'll round off the flats and graze your knuckles!
do you have a vice? A bench vice I mean...
- Joel
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Post by cdfeto on May 24, 2006 19:17:56 GMT 10
Yeh, sorry about that I ment right side. What does "seized" mean I didn't try to rmove the cup because my adjustable spanner what big enough and no, I don't have a vice.
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Post by tomac on May 24, 2006 21:17:25 GMT 10
well I have a vice. Seized means rusted or otherwise fused in place by a chemical reaction between either the mating materials or by the oxidisation of one material. It takes a lot of force and probably some penetrating lubricant (!) to get it out.
- Joel
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Post by cdfeto on May 24, 2006 21:43:19 GMT 10
Ok, but do I really want/need to get that cup out ? Un-less im using a cartridge BB.
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Post by tomac on May 25, 2006 7:51:20 GMT 10
if you're using an old fashioned cup and cone BB you can probably leave the cup in if the bearing surface isn't pitted. If you're using a cartridge BB though, you'll have to remove it. Try taking it to the shop you'll buy the other BB from, see if they'll remove it for you. If they can't, take it to MY shop (in scullin).
- Joel
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